Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Rio
Our tour starts in the evening after dinner in Rio de Janeiro. Overnight
in Rio.
Day 2: Rio to Guapi Assu
We leave Rio after breakfast and travel 2 hours northeast to Guapi
Assu Bird Lodge, a birding and wildlife lodge situated in the heart
of Brazil’s Atlantic Forest, where we spend the next four nights.
Part of the REGUA (Reserva Ecológica de Guapiaçu) project,
our lodge sits on a small hill at the edge of restored wetlands, overlooking
the forested Serra dos Órgãos mountains. After settling
into our comfortable accommodations, we visit the wetlands and our
first introduction to waterbirds. Since being restored in 2005 an amazing
180 species have been recorded here. The star bird is Giant Snipe,
best looked for at dawn or dusk. Other target birds include Least Grebe,
Brazilian Teal, Masked Duck, Limpkin, Whistling and Capped Herons,
Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Pinnated and Stripe-backed Bitterns, Gray-headed
Kite, Crane Hawk, Laughing and Aplomado Falcons, Rufous-sided Crake,
Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail, Ash-throated Crake, Blackish Rail, White
Woodpecker, Tail-banded Hornero, Sooty Tyrannulet, Yellow-browed Tyrant,
Long-billed Wren, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, White-headed Marsh Tyrant,
Yellowish Pipit and Chestnut-capped Blackbird.
Night at Guapi Assu.
Days 3 – 5: REGUA and nearby locations
REGUA protects one of the last stands of tropical rainforest left in
the severely depleted Atlantic Rainforest in Brazil, one of the world’s
most threatened ecosystems. Once covering about 1.5 million km2, centuries
of deforestation has resulted in only 7% of the original forest area
remaining, an area of 100,000 km2, mostly on mountain sides and steep
slopes, too difficult for trees to be felled, and only an estimated
2% is still primary forest. Despite the loss and habitat fragmentation,
this ecoregion is still ranked in the top five of the world’s
biodiversity hotspots. The reserve ranges in altitude from 35 m to
about 2000 m above sea level, making Guapi Assu Bird Lodge the ideal
location to see a good altitudinal cross-section of Atlantic Forest
birds. Over 450 species have been sighted to date, including toucans,
woodpeckers, owls, cotingas, manakins, antbirds and tanagers. So far
63 Brazilian endemics and 111 Atlantic Forest endemics have been recorded.
REGUA alone is home to twelve threatened species - the Endangered Crowned
Eagle and Brown-backed Parrotlet, and the Vulnerable White-necked Hawk,
Golden-tailed Parrotlet, White-bearded Antshrike, Salvadori’s
Antwren, Russet-winged Spadebill, Bare-throated Bellbird, Black-backed
Tanager, Black-legged Dacnis, Buffy-fronted and Temminck’s Seedeaters.
More common and easily seen Atlantic Forest specialties include Black
Hawk-Eagle, Maroon-bellied Parakeet, Surucua Trogon, Rufous-capped
Motmot, Spot-billed Toucanet, Black-billed Scythebill, Pin-tailed and
Blue Manakins, and Blue-naped Chlorophonia.
The lodge gardens provide superb birding and photography opportunities
from the veranda. Fruit feeders attract noisy groups of euphonias,
chlorophonias, and tanagers such as Hooded, Ruby-crowned, Brazilian,
Sayaca, Green-headed and Burnished-buff. At hummingbird feeders Swallow-tailed
Hummingbirds compete with Rufous-breasted Hermits, Black Jacobins,
Violet-capped Woodnymphs and Glittering-throated Emeralds. Around the
gardens Orange-winged Parrot, Guira Cuckoo, Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl,
Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Crescent-chested Puffbird, Channel-billed Toucan,
Blond-crested Woodpecker, Chestnut-backed Antshrike are often present,
while at night Pauraque, Short-tailed Nighthawk, Rufous and Scissor-tailed
Nightjars can be found, along with Tropical Screech-Owl and Tawny-browed
Owl near the lodge.
Often the forest seems full of birds and large mixed flocks can contain
15 or more species. 30 species of antbirds have been recorded at REGUA,
including Giant, Spot-backed, Tufted and Sooretama Slaty Antshrikes,
Spot-breasted Antvireo, Star-throated Antwren, Scaled and Ferruginous
Antbirds, Rufous-capped Antthrush and Variegated Antpitta. During our
stay we visit low and high altitude forest, wetlands, waterfalls and
a variety of other habitats. This is one of the best sites for the
difficult Shrike-like Cotinga (Elegant Mourner). Mantled Hawk, Blue-bellied
Parrot, Saw-billed Hermit, Black-cheeked Gnateater, Slaty Bristlefront,
Eye-ringed Tody-Tyrant, Eastern Striped Manakin and Spotted Bamboowren
are also eagerly sought.
Short trails near the lodge pass through secondary forest, grassy meadows
and along the edge of the wetland. Birding here can often produce over
100 species in a day. Target birds are lowland species such as Squirrel
and Striped Cuckoos, Reddish Hermit, White-chinned Sapphire, Chicli
Spinetail, White-flanked Antwren, White-bearded Manakin, Yellow-lored
Tody-Flycatcher, Bran-coloured Flycatcher, White-winged Becard and
Moustached Wren. Mammals are also plentiful, and include Three-toed
Sloth, Brown Howler, Brown Capuchin and Woolly Spider Monkeys, Crab-eating
Fox, Coati, Tayra, Southern River Otter, Ocelot and Capybara. The Waterfall
Trail is a low to mid elevation forest trail starting from Casa Pequisa
and passing through superb scenery. Species regular on this trail include
Unicoloured Antwren, Sharpbill, Southern Antpipit, Gray-hooded Attila,
Golden-chevroned and Turquoise Tanagers, Red-legged Honeycreeper, Ashy-tailed
Swift, Black-throated Trogon, Ochre-breasted Foliage-gleaner, Sharp-tailed
Streamcreeper, Lesser Woodcreeper, White-throated Spadebill, Whiskered
Flycatcher and Grayish Mourner. Other trails pass through excellent
bamboo and montane forest, where Brown Tinamou, Spot-winged Wood-Quail,
White-collared Foliage-gleaner, Rufous Gnateater, Drab-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant,
Uniform Finch and Pectoral Sparrow occur.
On one day, we visit Pico da Caledônia, at 2219 m one of the
highest peaks in the Serra dos Orgaos Mountains. This is one of only
two known sites for the extremely rare Gray-winged Cotinga, and there
is also a population of Itatiaia Thistletail here. Other high altitude
species include Plovercrest, Large-tailed Antshrike, Rufous-tailed
Antbird, Mouse-coloured Tapaculo, Black-and-gold Cotinga, Highland
Elania, Serra do Mar Tyrannulet, Blue-billed and Velvety Black-Tyrants,
Shear-tailed Gray Tyrant, Rufous-crowned Greenlet, Hooded Berryeater,
Diademed Tanager and Bay-chested Warbling-Finch. Swallow-tailed Cotinga,
Dusky-tailed Antbird and Red-legged Seriema are present lower down
on the mountain, as are Ochre-bellied Flycatcher and Red-rumped Cacique.
A drive to the Atlantic coast could produce Brassy-breasted Tanager,
Yellow-green Grosbeak as well as Saffron Toucanet, Red-ruffed Fruitcrow,
Hangnest Tody-Tyrant and Scaly-headed Parrot. Elfin Forest supports
Solitary Tinamou, Dusky-legged Guan, Least Pygmy-Owl, White-throated
Hummingbird, Brazilian Ruby, Yellow-browed Woodpecker, Pallid Spinetail,
Rufous-backed Antvireo, Ochre-rumped Antbird, Greenish Schiffornis,
Oustalet’s Tyrannulet, Brown Tanager, Green-chinned Euphonia,
and Half-collared Sparrow, as well as Biscutate Swift, Yellow-fronted
and Yellow-eared Woodpeckers, Pale-browed Treehunter, Black-capped
and White-eyed Foliage-gleaners, White-throated Woodcreeper, Black-tailed
Tityra, Rufous-headed, Olive-green and Azure-shouldered Tanagers, and
Green-winged Saltator.
The Matumbo Trail lies just outside of REGUA. Here we have a chance
of finding Frilled Coquette, Plain Parakeet, Burrowing Owl, Gray-rumped
Swift, Buff-bellied and White-eared Puffbirds, Rufous-breasted Leaftosser,
Scaled Woodcreeper, Cliff Flycatcher, Red-necked Tanager and Pileated
Finch. Nights at Guapi Assu Bird Lodge.
Day 6: Transfer to Serra dos Tucanos
Today, we leave and travel to Serra dos Tucanos Lodge, arriving late
in the afternoon. Serra dos Tucanos is a small birding lodge within
the 46,000 ha Tres Picos State Park, in the heart of the Atlantic rain
forest. Situated at 400m in altitude, it is completely surrounded by
forest. In the 20 ha lodge grounds, over 200 species have been recorded,
of which over 60 are Atlantic forest endemics. There are several bird
tables, feeding stations and hummingbird feeders, which offer a chance
to see a number of species close-up, plus a photo hide offering superb
opportunities for photography. Frequent visitors include Boat-billed
Flycatcher, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Rufous-bellied, Pale-breasted
and Creamy-bellied Thrushes, Violaceous, Orange-bellied and Chestnut-bellied
Euphonias, Blue Dacnis, Green Honeycreeper and Buff-throated Saltator.
Hummingbird feeders are equally well visited; regular visitors include
Sombre Hummingbird, Versicolored Emerald and Amethyst Woodstar. In
the grounds White-barred Piculet, Streaked Xenops, Olivaceous Woodcreeper,
Streak-capped Antwren, Yellow-lored Tody Flycatcher and Chestnut-crowned
Becard occur. Night at Serra dos Tucanos Lodge.
Days 7 – 9: Serra dos Tucanos and nearby locations
Around the lodge, there are numerous well-maintained forest trails,
passing through a variety of different habitats, with equally diverse
groups of birds. Species we look for include Barred Forest Falcon,
Gray-fronted Dove, Ruddy Quail Dove, Long-tailed Potoo, Dusky-throated
Hermit, Plain Xenops, Thrush-Like Woodcreeper, Eye-ringed Tody Tyrant,
several tanagers - Yellow-backed, Flame-crested Tanager, Black-goggled
- and Black-throated Grosbeak. Raptors around the lodge include Rufous-thighed
Kite, Tiny Hawk, Black-and-White Hawk-Eagle and Collared Forest Falcon.
Situated at the back of the property, the Water Box Trail climbs gradually
up towards a fresh water spring; birds that can be seen on this trail
include Buff-fronted Foliage-Gleaner, Plain Antvireo, White-shouldered
Fire-eye, Gray-hooded Flycatcher, Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Eared Pygmy-Tyrant
and Crested Oropendola. The appropriately named Circular Trail hosts
a wealth of species including Tawny-throated Leaftosser, Red-crowned
Ant-Tanager, Pileated Parrot, Serra Antwren, many antbirds including
Bertoni’s and Rio de Janeiro, Hooded Berryeater, and Chestnut-headed
and Gilt-edged Tanagers.
Trails a short drive from the lodge support Rufous-capped Spinetail,
Variable Antshrike, Brazilian Antthrush, Sharp-billed Treehunter, Hooded
Berryeater, Drab-breasted Bamboo Tyrant, White-rimmed Warbler and Yellow-faced
Parrot. A 30 minute drive from the lodge is the trail towards Macae
de Cima, where we look for Plumbeous Pigeon, Red-eyed Thornbird, Saffron-crested
Tyrant-Manakin, and many more. On one day we head off towards Nova
Friburgo where at higher altitudes (1600m) we look for White-tailed
Hawk, Variable and Rufous-capped Antshrikes, Serra do Mar Tyrant Manakin,
Olivaceous Elaenia, Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher, Yellow-legged Thrush,
Fawn-breasted, Hepatic and Cinnamon Tanagers, and Thick-billed Saltator.
We take an excursion in search of the endemic Three-toed Jacamar. We
should encounter a suite of goodies - Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture,
Plumbeous Kite, Savanna and White-tailed Hawk, Bat Falcon, Blue-winged
Macaw, White-eyed Parakeet, Common Barn Owl, Planalto Hermit, Sapphire-spangled
Emerald, Amethyst Woodstar, Black-necked Aracari, Red-eyed Thornbird,
Narrow-billed Woodcreeper, Gray and White-rumped Monjita, Streamer-tailed
Tyrant, Long-tailed Tyrant, White-rumped and Tawny-headed Swallow,
Black-capped Donacobius, Curl-crested Jay, Magpie, Orange-headed, Tanagers
and Hooded Siskin. Nights at Serra dos Tucanos Lodge.
Day 10: Return to Rio
Today we return to Rio. Most international flights leave Rio quite
late, so after a morning of birding, we take a leisurely drive back
to Rio, well in time for our flights home.
What to Expect
We begin birding
early in the morning, usually after an early breakfast. There will
be a few optional nocturnal outing, to search for owls and
nightjars. Generally, the tour will proceed at a relaxed pace; occasionally,
activities will involve some longer walks and some hill climbing. In
general, we keep to less traveled roads and fairly easy walking trails,
but at times it may be necessary to walk on some rocky trails. We visit
elevations up to 2000 m. We lunch at a local restaurant or take a picnic
lunch into the field, and may rest for a midday siesta on some days.
Temperatures will be variable; they will range from fairly hot to cool,
with the possibility of cool fog at higher elevations. We will most
likely encounter some rain, and some trails may be muddy, so appropriate
clothing and footwear is desirable. Overall October is a pleasant time
to visit southeast Brazil - it is springtime and temperatures are more
moderate. The tour will be relaxed as we stay at just the two lodges.
After each dinner we discuss the day’s activities, review the
day’s list of sightings, and lay out plans for the next day.